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Repair Metal Ceilings in Place

Friday, January 13th, 2012


I have been in literally hundreds of hog buildings over the course of my travels. It really doesn’t matter who built them, the quality of the metal or the insulation value…..if they have a metal ceiling you will eventually have some rust occurring. The most typical spots to see this are around the air inlets (cold air hitting a warm ceiling) and the along the outside walls where the ceiling metal is rolled over the knee braces (insulation tends to slide down). Over time this metal rusts and needs to be replaced.

Huge job! The plumbing and electrical lines have to be dropped, metal unscrewed, rips in the vapor barrier repaired, replace insulation and slide and fastened new metal sheeting into place.

Those kinds of repairs are the ones that tend to get put off indefinitely. That’s where products from Vanberg Specialized Coatings come in. Rust Converter and EM-15 Epoxy Mastic are used to repair metal ceiling in place.

First, remove all the loose rust you can by scraping or pressure washing.

Second, apply Rust Converter to the visible rust areas. Rust Converter will neutralize the rust, you will see the rust turn from red to black in a couple of minutes.

Third, mix the two part EM-15 Epoxy Mastic together and either roll or paint it on the metal for a hard, moisture resistant coating that preserves the metal and protects it from further damage.

Vanberg produces a repair kit (EM15-1K) with everything you need to get started. You can go to www.hogslat.biz and order it today.

Medicator Best Practices

Friday, July 30th, 2010

Virginie Buck
By Virginie Buck,
Dosatron International

Everyone knows that water-powered medicators are the easiest way to administer a wide variety of medications, vaccinations and supplements. But after you buy a medicator, there are several things you can do to make sure you get the most bang for your buck from your equipment, and that it will last a long time.

When installing your medicator, be sure to plumb an 80 micron/200 mesh filter on the inlet side of the medicator. This will ensure that your medicator will be protected from poor water quality conditions that can potentially damage your unit. This will also protect any equipment you have downstream from the medicator, such as nipples, valves, and drinkers, from getting clogged and wearing out prematurely.

Also, make sure that your concentrate bucket is clean and free from debris that could get sucked up inside the medicator and jam the check valve. A good rule of thumb is to secure your hose at least 4” up from the bottom of the stock tank so that heavy debris is not sucked up into the medicator.

Always be sure that your maximum flow rate stays within the maximum capacity of your medicator. Be sure to check with your medicator’s manufacturer for specifications and for ways to determine flow rate. If you determine that your flow rate is higher than the maximum recommended, you may want to consider switching to a model with a higher maximum flow rate. Turning your water on slowly will gradually pressurize the system, helping to prevent a rush of water through the pipes that could be harmful to the equipment.

One of the most important things you can do to protect your medicator is to keep up the medicator’s maintenance schedule, which you should be able to get from your medicator’s manufacturer.

Flushing your medicator with clear water may be the single most important tip I can give.

Strainer off bottom

Medicators are one of the most important weapons in your arsenal when it comes to keeping your animals as healthy as possible. By following these simple best practices, you’ll make sure that your medicator continues to work hard for you for years to come.

Selecting Ag Replacement Motors

Friday, July 30th, 2010

Today’s livestock operations rely on electric motors to function. Unfortunately, like all things mechanical, motors wear out and have to be replaced. What do you have to know to make good choice when selecting replacement motors?

Some criteria is fairly straight forward….you need to match the physical properties like the mounting scheme (C-face or base) frame size, shaft size and length, etc. Most agricultural motors are single phase and motors with rated voltages of 115/208-230 will fit all applications.

One of the most misunderstood terms in selecting motors is Service Factor or S.F. Service Factor is defined as a motor’s ability to operate under load……another way to describe it? It’s like a motor’s safety factor. The higher the S.F. the more durable a motor is…..you should expect a motor with high S.F. to last longer.

Another important rating to consider is Full Load amps that each motor is rated. Simply put, high amp motors are wound with more copper. More copper equals a motor that will withstand more heat before becoming damaged……. a motor that will last longer. I would buy a motor with higher amps every time because I know I will have to buy it less often.

What about energy efficient motors? Typically these motors have lower SF (1.15) and a lower FL amp rating. This done to provide a motor that uses less power during normal operation conditions. The problem is motors rarely operate under normal conditions. All fans get dirty and feed lines jam increasing the load on motors. Add in varying line voltage, common on rural power, and we have stressful conditions that shorten motor life.

Hog Slat designed the Grower Select line of motors to help simplify a producer’s decision on selecting replacement motors. Grower Select motors feature a high Service Factor (as high as 1.4) and higher Full Load Amps calculated to increase motor life. Grower Select motors are step above standard generic motors. Each model number is a direct cross to the most popular brands of feed systems and fans that are used on producers’ farms. So no matter what your brand we have Grower Select motor designed to replace it and save you money.

For more information on Grower Select motors click here.